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Freud 99-031 1-1/2-Inch Reversible Glue Joint Bit | 
| Brand: Freud
Category: Home Improvement
List Price: $90.90
Buy New: $49.97
as of 7/29/2010 23:14 CDT details
You Save: $40.93 (45%)
New (14)
Seller: Deerso
Rating:  6 reviews
Media: Tools & Hardware
Shipping Weight (lbs): 0.5
Dimensions (in): 4.6 x 3.6 x 2.4
MPN: 99-031
Model: 99-031
UPC: 008925381730
EAN: 0008925381730
ASIN: B0000225XN
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
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| Features:
| • | Provides a stronger joint by increasing the surface area for glue | | • | Cuts all composition materials, plywood, hardwood and soft wood | | • | Precision-ground carbide bits are made with added titanium; impervious to chemical attack | | • | Computer-balanced for vibration-free operation | | • | 1-1/2-Inch bit diameter; 1/2-Inch shank diameter |
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| Customer Reviews:
 Excellent addition to my shop... January 23, 2007
kar120c (Ridgefield, CT USA)
1 out of 1 found this review helpful
I bought this bit a few weeks ago. I use it with a Bench Dog Pro-Max router table extention I installed on by Ridgid Table saw. Using the bit did involve a learning curve, but so far, so good.
Here are a few tips I would pass on...
1) Us a piece of scrap to get the bit height right (you must be very precise here), then save the scrap for future use (i.e. save a 3/4 scrap board for future 3/4 boards you want to glue up). Use the scrap board to align the bit height by laying the cut edge along side the installed bit and fitting it to the bit. This will get you very close - cut another scrap piece the same thickness you need for the real thing, to make sure, then cut what ever you need.
2) Use the rip fence on the table saw to guide the piece through. I use both fences (the table saw fence and the router fence) as a guide, but all you really need is the table saw fence.
3) Use a nice, even feed rate - too fast and you risk tearout, too slow and you risk burning. You may need a bit of practice, but after a few cuts, you will know what to do. If you are not sure, slower is better.
4) Use a router with enough power. I use a Craftsman 2.5 hp model at approx. 22,000 rpma and it works fine.
This bit is sharp, and with care, you last a long time. Good luck.
 making the perfect glue joint January 17, 2007
John W. Wendt (Lubbock, TX and Gulu, Uganda)
2 out of 2 found this review helpful
This is one of my most-used bits. There are some things you should know before purchasing. First, you don't need a router table to use it. But you will need a straight edge, as long as your joint. I use the Eurkekazone guide, but you can get by with the edge of a commercial piece of plywood if it's well-cut.
Now, the whole key to using this bit is setting it at the correct height, because you want it perfectly centered, as you will be routing half your edges from the top and the other half from the bottom. It helps--greatly--to have a thickness planer to ensure that your boards are all of the same thickness.
To set it at the correct height, here's a way:
1) After putting the bit in your router, find a hard, flat surface (like a flat board or the surface of your table saw). Then push your router down until the blade touches the surface, and lock it down.
2) Measure--precisely--the thickness of the wood that you are joining. A micrometer is nice for this.
3) Take the thickness of your wood, subtract it from the thickness cut by this bit (1.5 inches, or 38 mm), and divide by 2. Add this thickness to the thickness of the pieces you want to join. EXAMPLE: The wood you want to join is 22 mm thick. Subtract that from 38 to get you 16. Divide that by 2 to get 8. Add that to the wood thickness (22), and you get 30 mm.
4) Now, using your router adjustment, raise your router base by the amount calculated--in the above example, 30 mm. This will center the bit exactly if you are careful.
If you are joining multiple pieces and some have to be joined on both sides, always route the glue joint for that piece of wood from the same side (that is, either top or bottom). If after routing your joints and pushing your pieces together, you find that your pieces are slightly staggered (every other one alternately high or low), pass the appropriate side through the planer to even things up to perfection before gluing.
I have a finger joint bit as well, but for most applications, I prefer the glue joint bit. While a finger joint provides more surface area, it also provides a very long path for the glue to navigate when squeezing the clamps, and the glue takes more time to get into a finger joint, meaning it can start to set up. The bottom line is that when you clamp over a finger joint, excess glue may not completely squeeze out, and the glue line can be more obvious. I use the finger joint occasionally for short pieces (like cutting boards), and when I use it, I usually dilute the glue to make it easier to spread and squeeze out.
But my hands-down choice for big pieces like tabletops is the glue joint bit. With a good glue and a straight cut line, the joint is plenty strong, automatically aligns your wood, and creates a practicallly invisible glue joint. I would not join a tabletop together without it. It speeds up the whole operation because you won't waste your time trying to get the pieces aligned while your glue is drying. Major stress reduction!
Hope that these suggestions are comprehensible and useful. Happy woodworking!
Glue joint bit excellent for aligning board surfaces. February 7, 2003
Bob Feeser (Springfield, PA USA)
24 out of 27 found this review helpful
This glue joint bit is excellent for aligning board surfaces. It also enhances the surface area moderately, thereby adding some strength. For further strength, use it in conjunction with biscuits. I had bought this Freud reversible glue up joint bit as part of a cabinet set.
The problem is getting the glue seams on multiple boards to sit flush. Normally when clamping, one board might sit a little higher, or lower than the one next to it. Clamping is of course an answer, but is only effective if you clamp the heck out of nearly the entire surface.
If you are fortunate enough to own a huge drum or belt sanding stationary machine, you enjoy the advantage of being able to pass your table top through the sander to level the edges. Since most of us don't have that advantage, it would be reassuring to know that the irregular face of the bit forces the alignment of the individual boards.
You must take the time to get the registration right. To prep to use this bit, is to plane the boards, all at the same time, to a final even thickness, and then used the reversible glue up joint bit, you would wind up with a table top that would only need a light sanding.
From what I see, most people are considering this bit to be an alternative to biscuit joinery. Although I admit that you are slightly increasing the amount of board surface to glue up, it is not really significant enough to make a substantial difference in the strength of the joint. It appears that the finger joint bit would do the job of increasing surface area a little better.
The advantage of the Frued glue joint bit, is that it will give you a perfect alignment of the boards. In plain words, a flat top without irregular seam ridges to try and sand out.
In conclusion, use this glue up joint bit to align your boards, and mildly enhance the glue surface. Adding biscuits would give you even more strength.
Hope this helps.
Nice joint, a little hard to set up October 8, 2001
David West (Castaic, CA United States)
10 out of 10 found this review helpful
This bit is nice, however, it was a little bit hard to set up. Once set up, it was very clean and precise over the entire length of panel. When I raised the panel after glue up, the joint was invisible. No glue lines visible. That is great. It also produced a jointed like edge on the mating surfaces after routing. Very nice.
 Practical Considerations September 5, 2001
16 out of 17 found this review helpful
The concept is appealing. Treat your edges with this bit and glue them together. More glue surface means a stronger joint.The problem is that one must be exact with the positioning of the bit...and I mean exact. If your're off by a hair, your error is mutlplied twice by the same error on the other board. In addition, the cut of the bit takes off about 1/8" off each board. It also would have helped if the company published the center point of the bit. I assumed it was 1/2 the overall height. To be fair, this is a well made bit with plenty of heft. Running it around 18000 rpm produced the best performance. If you are interested in this type of edge glueing you might also want to take a look at the company's other offerings, particularly the finger joint edge glue bit. This bit does not need to be exacrly centered but raised or lowered 7/32" to provide a match.
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